Tag Archives: camera equipment

Recommendation: Kirk Photo

This is the second blog posting in a row about equipment - it’s not going to turn into a pattern! It’s just a little entry in order to recommend Kirk Photo’s tripod brackets. I want to comment on both the brackets, and the good service I received from Kirk.

Bruce Percy and others have repeatedly raved about the ease of using an L-bracket on a camera, and a little while ago I bit the bullet and went for it (I paid for all of this before my most recent expenditure, in case you’re wondering!). Having been out with the camera and my new L-bracket setup, it really is fantastically good - I can’t quite believe how straightforward it is to use and how incredibly stable it is, even though the camera is fairly substantial.

However, getting the right parts was not completely straightforward: I wanted this for my Mamiya 645ProTL medium format camera, and although I initially bought - on Kirk’s emailed recommendation! - the wrong part (the BL-645AF may fit a Mamiya 645AF/D but it does NOT fit a 645ProTL!), they were very apologetic and then incredibly helpful in identifying the right parts. This went so far as getting me to measure parts of my camera to make sure the part they were now recommending really did fit. I returned the incorrect L-bracket, and they then promptly sent me the new parts, with no additional postage charge. I was very impressed by how efficient and helpful they were, so if you’re thinking of L-brackets, do check out Kirk - they seem like good products, and the staff are great!

For information: if you also have a Mamiya 645ProTL then you’ll need a PZ-34 body plate (ignore that it says it’s for an RB67, it fits perfectly!) and a QRLB-S quick release bracket. For my Manfrotto 410 tripod head, I bought an SQRC-3271 quick release clamp for the L bracket to slot into. Kirk do, of course, supply the Allen keys needed for attaching everything.

So… go Kirk Photo!

P.S. Each of the component names above links to the relevant part of the Kirk website, but here is the homepage in case they change those links. Bear in mind that if these items are being posted to the UK, you’ll also need to pay import taxes before the post office will deliver your parcel.

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New camera, new challenges

I’m just back from two weeks’ holiday in the Highlands and Islands. Before going I was beginning to toy with the idea of a pinhole camera, but something else has come up…

New camera

Last year I went on a large format photography day workshop – a kind of taster to see if this kind of thing might be of interest to me. It was… and soon after that I was nearly tempted into buying one of Mark Banks’ view cameras that he was selling, but I couldn’t quite afford it at the time (have a look at his website, by the way - wonderful images!).

Whilst on holiday near Inverness a couple of weeks ago I found myself in Ffordes – a fantastic camera shop selling all kinds of new and second-hand camera equipment. I was there to buy a spare plate for my tripod head (which I did, second-hand, at £7, and my bank balance would have been very happy had I just walked out of the shop at that point). But I also asked about prices for wide lenses for my Mamiya MF camera, and somehow the discussion then moved on to other things… and before long a Chamonix 4×5 view camera was mentioned…

Chamonix view camera

Chamonix view camera

Almost completely unused and on sale at a pretty good price, I went away to think about it, consult some Twitter users of 4×5 cameras, and the next day, I went back to buy it. Gulp!

Chamonix view camera

Chamonix view camera

So now I have a rather beautiful view camera! It is one of the cameras that Dav Thomas and Tim Parkin recommended when I was on their large-format workshop last year, and I know that other photographers like Tim Smalley have used Chamonix cameras after being on Dav and Tim’s workshops. I don’t yet have any lenses for it, nor do I have any of the other accessories I’ll need, but I’ll be working towards acquiring these just as soon as I have paid off the credit card bill for the camera! ;)

Chamonix view camera

Chamonix view camera

The Chamonix is very light, and folds down to become fairly small and rather elegant. I don’t really get very excited about modern cameras: my digital Nikon is a great camera and does the job well, but it is pretty soulless. However, there is something absolutely exquisite about this view camera, which is partly, I think, to do with there being no plastic - it’s made of metal, wood, and glass, with board for the bellows.

Chamonix view camera

Chamonix view camera

This makes handling it a very tactile experience, even before it’s seen any usage. I also like the attention to detail in the construction of the body, which makes me want to touch it and use it right away. I know that a modern digital camera is designed and made with amazing attention to detail: every component is precisely formed within fractions of a millimetre so as to squeeze in every last little bit of technological wizardry, but still… this is somehow different. I never thought I’d be this sentimental and romantic about a camera, but it really is a beautiful piece of equipment!

Chamonix view camera

Chamonix view camera

Of course, it’s all very well being excited about the tactile nature of the camera - I need to use it properly and create images with it that work for me and communicate something of what I understand and see in the landscape. Given that I don’t have any of the necessary accessories yet, that might take a little while, but it will come… I would hope that I’m able to start working with it in a couple of months’ time at the latest (afore-mentioned credit card bill being a key factor…!).

New challenges

Calanais, taken on my iPhone the previous evening

Calanais, taken on my iPhone the previous evening

A few days after buying the Chamonix I was on the Isle of Lewis - an amazing experience, of which more another time (my films are being processed at the moment and I won’t get them back until later this week). The house we were staying in didn’t have much of a mobile signal, but I was out one afternoon photographing the second and third group of Calanais standing stones where the mobile reception was pretty good, and Twitter chatter from a few days before that confirmed the news that Fuji are withdrawing Velvia 50 and 100F in 4×5 format - just as I buy myself a 4×5 camera! As it is for many other people, Velvia 50 is my favourite colour film for landscapes, so I found that news rather depressing, and I even found myself wondering if I had made a mistake buying the Chamonix if my favourite colour film was being withdrawn.

At the time of writing, I’m not sure whether this means Fuji UK are no longer importing 4×5 Velvia 50 to the UK and therefore it might still be available elsewhere, or if it is going to be discontinued globally. I’m not bothered about the 100F being discontinued, which has always seemed to me to be a pointless film, but it seems odd that the 50 is being discontinued and the Velvia 100 is being kept (for now) - if Fuji thinks cutting down the Velvia range is necessary, then ditching both the 100 and 100F would seem more sensible to me.

Anyway: there’s not much I can do about decisions by a global company like Fuji (beyond signing this petition - I’d encourage you to do likewise!). My first reaction on Lewis was to come home and try to buy lots of 4×5 Velvia 50 so that I have a stock of it to use with my new camera. I did look into different suppliers in the UK, but they are mostly out of stock (other photographers - clearly not on holiday at the time of the announcement! - seem to have bought up everything they could). I even checked some suppliers abroad: it appears to still be readily available in Germany, for example.

But now I am beginning to think that I should just leave it: I think that perhaps the challenge for me should be to look at doing something new with the 4×5 camera and to keep the Velvia 50 for my medium format Mamiya (it is still being produced in 120 size). My thinking just now is that perhaps I should be photographing landscapes on the Chamonix using black and white film - I love Ilford’s FP4+ film, for example - at least to begin with. There are two good reasons for this:

  • a practical one: FP4+ is wonderfully forgiving about exposure errors in a way that Velvia is most emphatically not, and perhaps this will stand me in good stead as I get to grips with a new process;
  • a process one: I want to engage more with my composition and I can imagine that photographing in black and white on a view camera could enable that, not least since the image on the ground glass is, of course, upside down! This means shape and form and tone are more accentuated when composing, at least, that was my impression from the workshop I participated in last year.

So my sadness at the apparent loss of Velvia 50 in 4×5 format is turning into a further kind of challenge. Again, I’ll have to see how I get on with this, and I’m sure there will be plenty of ‘misses’ - but I hope the ‘hits’ to ‘misses’ ratio improves over time!

Chamonix view camera

Chamonix view camera

More about this camera and my trials with the image-making process to come over the next months. And yes: the pinhole will now have to wait a little longer…

A wee taster: large format photography

A long time ago I booked for a May one-day workshop exploring large-format photography; I had to postpone this because of my broken arm, and went this weekend instead. I hope to show one of two of the images at a later date if they’re any good, but spending a take exploring what large format cameras are capable of, and the possibilities they offer, was great.

Theoretically knowing what such things can do is quite different to experiencing it, to trying it. As someone suggested to me, it’s a bit like knowing about cars in theory, but actually doing the driving is quite different. This was just an introduction, but the two workshop leaders, Dav Thomas and Tim Parkin, worked well together to explain what we were aiming for and how to achieve particular things. After showing us some of the mechanics of the cameras and why certain things worked they did, we had a go at focusing on trees in the middle-distance and heather and grasses in the foreground - if you’ve never used an LF camera before, this isn’t as straightforward as it sounds, though very satisfying when it finally works!

After lunch, we went up the hill and took some photographs. For a newbie, it takes a long time to frame and focus each image, so, including a walk to the top of a hill (and a quick march back down at the end of the day in the pouring rain!), I took three photographs in just under 4 hours. I think setting up, framing and focusing took between about 20 and 45 minutes - perhaps I’m just slow, but I think the other three people on the workshop were taking just as long. Of course, it does get faster with practice - I started with a complicated composition in the woods that didn’t really work as well as it might have done had the sun shone consistently. I then moved to another spot, and took time to get that set up correctly… a good 45 minutes, I think! My third and final image was simpler in composition and took about 20 minutes, and I was able to release the shutter just as the first drops of rain came down.

So why go for large format? Aside from the phenomenal detail and corresponding image size involved, for me the attraction would be in what it becomes possible to do when you can tilt and shift the lens and the back of the camera independently of one another. Last night, after coming back from the Peak District, I found myself dreaming of retaking this image:

Goslpie harbour, final image

Goslpie harbour, final image

When I was in the harbour I wanted the lines of the jetty to be straight and for the coils of rope in the foreground to be visible, as they were when I looked at it without the camera, but it was an impossible effect to achieve with an SLR (these were taken on a DSLR). Here is the ‘straight out of the camera’ image:

Golspie harbour, from camera

Golspie harbour, from camera

Straightening the lines of the jetty has introduced distortion - still acceptable, I think - into some of the other elements of the image, such as the white boat on the left and the blue boat in the foreground. It’s also removed part of the coils. I knew that I wanted what became the final image, and knew that if I took it as it was I could ‘fix’ the perspective in Photoshop. But with a LF camera, such post-processing changes could have been largely unnecessary, or at least much reduced. A tilt-shift lens could probably have helped me here as well, but in terms of cost, it seems to me to make more sense just to go with a LF set-up instead of a tilt-shift lens - and then one can benefit from the quality and flexibility of LF too.

So is a LF camera going to be added to my collection of tools in the future? The one concern I have is that I struggled with the dark-cloth - I know that I am a little claustrophobic and it required considerable will-power to spend long periods setting up each shot under the dark cloth. A black fleece jacket, which is much more open than the professional cloths Dav and Tim offered, might be a better solution for me. I think my next step will be to borrow an LF camera sometime and play a little more with it, but I see no reason NOT to invest, once my finances allow!

In the meantime, if you’re wondering whether this might be something for you, or you just want to try something a bit different, do go on one of Dav and Tim’s courses - it was enjoyable, informative, and the two of them are a good team.

Help with identifying a photo scanner for larger format film, please!

Now that I’m beginning to move towards larger film formats I need to invest in a scanner that can cope with these films. The Canon 4400F that I have is a pretty good all-round flatbed scanner (that I occasionally used for 35mm film), but now I need something that can deal with much larger film sizes.

My film requirements at this stage are smaller medium format (specifically 6×6 and 6×4.5cm - for a Rolleiflex and a Mamiya 645), but having seen what happens to people who start down the route of larger format cameras, I want to be prepared for perhaps larger formats in the future! Over time, films may get bigger…

I would love to get a Nikon 9000, but can’t possibly afford that.

As far as I can tell there are two flatbed scanners on Amazon of the quality that I’m after, and that are just about in my price range (well, if I don’t tell other people in my household…): the Epson V700 and V750. The 750 can use a glass holder for mounting film, which is obviously good for ensuring the film is completely flat and in focus from edge to edge.

Do you have any thoughts on this? If you have used either of these, or have experience of another comparable scanner, I’d love to hear from you, either in the comments below, or on Twitter: http://twitter.com/MichaelMarten.

Thank you!

[NB This posting was imported from another blog I once used, and the comments do not therefore follow the exact pattern of normal posts.]

Medium format photography: sometimes, bigger really is better

And here is another exciting post: I have to say, I can barely cope with all this photographic excitement, I’ll need to go and sit down in a dark corner and cuddle up to my tripod or something if this keeps going!

A colleague at work invited me over last Friday to look at his Mamiya 645 ProTL: he had told me on a train journey to work a few days before that he had bought it a few years ago - and had never used it! So he was thinking of selling it, but wanted to let me borrow it with a view to eventually perhaps buying it from him rather than putting it up for sale somewhere. Very generously, he’s letting me play with it until September - so I can take it with me on holiday and try it in lots of different settings. There are 80mm and 150mm lenses (approx. 50mm and 95mm in ‘normal’ 35mm film format), and the camera has a motor winder. He has also given me a couple of rolls of Fujichrome (Provia 100F), and lots of rolls of monochrome film. All the film is out of date, but has been kept in a fridge so should be absolutely fine.

And there’s more: as he was getting this out for me, he also came across his old Rolleiflex 2.8C (number 13 here; there appears to no direct link), along with a collection of filters for monochrome photography (orange, yellow-green etc.). And he wanted to give this to me as he was no longer using it… So I went home that day with two medium format cameras and various accessories, one of them mine, the other possibly to become mine!

I had been wondering about moving into medium format photography for a while, primarily because of the tremendous image quality that it offers with the bigger film, but the cost of doing so was putting me off (my overdraft needs nurturing, not more abuse!). So the gift and the loan offer from my colleague took me very much by surprise, and I really welcome it. Yesterday I dropped off the first Fujichrome (Mamiya) and Ilford (Rolleiflex) films to be processed. I suspect they’ll be rather bad, but I look forward to lots of practice, and I’ll begin to put images up here too!

Of course, I’ll now need to get a scanner that can cope with this size of film… anyone want to buy my present scanner?!

I don’t generally like…

… photography blogs that go on at great length about products and gear: often these simply seem to reproduce tedious press releases (someone once told me that ‘a product press release is hype in a pretty font’), and at other times it is just delight in acquiring lots of stuff that lacks any sense of how it might be used, with lots of photos of equipment, rather than photos made with equipment.

So I’m slightly wary about writing this entry, but what I have recently bought is going to make a big difference to me, especially in my beautiful but often rather rainy home country of Scotland. Just before the new year (when the UK’s awful ConDem government raised VAT - a sales tax, if you’re reading this from outside the UK), I ordered a ThinkTank Hydrophobia 70-200 raincover:

ThinkTank Hydrophobia 70-200

ThinkTank Hydrophobia 70-200

I ordered it (and the special eyepiece) from Harrison Cameras, who delivered very promptly despite the holiday period - I can recommend them! And I need not have worried about the tax rise quite so much - Harrison’s are keeping their prices at the old rate for the moment (so be quick if you want one too…!).

Although it looks pretty good, I wasn’t completely convinced by it when it arrived, not least because to start with it took quite some time to put it securely round the camera, carefully following the instruction manual (and my wife thinks men don’t read manuals… pah!). But now that I’m used to it, it really is GREAT - once set up, it allows easy access to all the settings, the viewfinder, and the rear display, and even in heavy rain the camera stayed completely dry. My D90 plus battery pack easily fits inside, and ThinkTank say it will be big enough for a professional camera such as the D700 or D3. So if you’re looking for a rain cover for an SLR camera, this is one I can definitely recommend!

There are two caveats I would make:

  1. it is designed to be able to cover a lens as long as the Nikon 70-200mm (drool…), so my 18-200mm will easily fit, as will the slightly longer cheap old 70-300mm. However, today I had the 10-24mm out with me, and the fabric had to be very scrunched up to stop it covering the front of the lens. This means that this rain cover would not be suitable for something like my 35mm or 50mm primes, so if, like me, you love to use this kind of lens, you might need to think about alternative covers (of course, this also means I won’t be using it with my Nikon FM2, which is very small compared to the D90, even without the extra battery pack). Having said that, if it is raining a lot, you might be reluctant to be changing lenses much and so a multi-purpose zoom could be just right, making this the perfect rain cover.
  2. because - obviously - the normal camera strap is inside the cover (there’s a very clever wee elasticated strap inside the cover to fold it into - ThinkTank have thought of almost everything!), there needs to be a strap for the rain cover itself. Unfortunately, the one that is provided is disappointingly narrow, so that even through a heavy raincoat, fleece and thick woolly jumper, I could feel it digging into my shoulders. I use an air-padded strap from Calumet for the D90 that is fantastically good, and so I will probably find myself buying another one to replace the cheap thin one on the ThinkTank cover.

One of the things that perhaps makes a difference with this product is that ThinkTank was created in part by good photographers who clearly have substantial input in the design of their products - and (apart from the strap) it really shows!

Not photographing everything

I’ve just read a wonderful blog post on B&H’s website on not photographing everything all the time. I think anyone who regularly has a camera with them and is known for doing that - whether they are a pro or an amateur - will be able to relate to this blog posting! I was delighted to find myself able to say “no” recently - just before my office Christmas lunch someone asked if I had my camera with me… and of course I did. But I found an ideal solution: I declined, but gave my camera to a colleague who is also a keen photographer, and very good at capturing portraits. So he used my camera and photographed everyone, whilst I was able to have my Christmas lunch in peace and concentrate on interacting with those around me: I wasn’t a photojournalist covering an event!

And one added benefit came from all this: I now even have photos of myself. Not that I really like being photographed (I think many photographers feel the same way!), but sometimes it can be quite nice to have some images of myself too.

Alternative aspect ratios

Bruce Percy, one of my favourite photographers, posted another interesting entry on his blog a few days ago. As you may know if you’ve read other entries on my blog, he is not only a gifted photographer, but also offers brilliant photography workshops. This particular blog posting was (provocatively) called “Abolish 3:2 (35mm)” and discussed aspect ratios: the size/shape of the viewfinders and resultant images in cameras. From the early days of 35mm film cameras to today’s DSLR cameras (as well as most compacts etc.), the format has stayed the same: all images are a multiple of 3 x 2. This makes for relatively long images, horizontally or vertically, but it’s not a very “natural” format, particularly for landscape imagery. After all, we don’t see the world in this way: our (peripheral) vision is much broader than this, and we see more in all directions. I have to say that I think the 3:2 format can work well for portraits because it can be used for the length of the human body. But for landscapes, a “squarer” format often tends to work better, either a real square (i.e. with sides of exactly the same length) or nearly square (such as 4×5 or 6×7 or similar). One of things Bruce tries to encourage is visualisation: “seeing” the image as you want it to be, even before you squeeze the shutter. He’s written quite a bit about this in his ebooks too (especially in “The Visual Sense“). His blog posting was picked up by others (for example, The Photographer’s Ephemeris and then Tim Parkin, and a lively discussion took place about all this (on Twitter).

However, it is not always easy to visualise in a different aspect ratio to the one the camera offers. Tim Parkin pointed to a product that did this for his DSLR (though Tim is mostly a large format, not a DSLR photographer). That seemed like a good idea, but even if it were available for my camera, it seemed like an unnecessary expense to a poor person like me, so here is my version of the same thing for my Nikon D90, manufactured at great expense (er… yes… that is a wonky piece of card I’ve cut to size and jammed in behind the plastic cover of my screen…):

4x5 template for D90

4x5 template for D90

It does present problems when I want to see all the settings, as some of the key menu options are hidden under the bottom piece of card:

4x5 template for D90

4x5 template for D90

Nonetheless, once I remembered to use the “liveview” function on the camera rather than composing through the viewfinder, it did change how I went about composing: rather than guessing at what a 4×5 ratio image would look like, I could really see it on the screen. It is stating the obvious to note that it does make quite a difference to see the image in the proportions I am ultimately aiming for - even if I intend to crop the image later.

4x5 template for D90

4x5 template for D90

Of course, what I want next is a quick and easy way to convert this template to a square format.

And for my film camera… er… I can see the argument for a new investment coming…

Thoughts on ‘progress’ and loyalty and contemporary cameras

One of the (to my mind) coherent arguments against digital cameras is that in the longer-term they cost more than film cameras. The idea behind this is that with a film camera, once you achieve a certain quality of body/lens, there is only limited additional quality that can be achieved by replacing the body. So whilst it might make sense to buy new lenses periodically (that is another argument entirely that I will perhaps return to another time), there is generally little point in replacing a body unless you’re a professional who needs a faster autofocus, motorwinder or whatever. But for most of us, we can buy a decent film camera body and be done with it, just spending our hard-earned money on occasional lenses. Then we can direct our attention towards actually taking photographs with all this expensive stuff we’ve bought.

With digital, it’s been a whole other issue, as bodies have improved remarkably over time. Ken Rockwell describes this rather memorably as ‘digital rot‘, and Bruce Percy and many others have also made similar points in the past: people who buy digital cameras will tend to want to buy new digital cameras when ‘the next model’ comes out. In the longer-term, therefore, digital shooting costs more than film shooting, even taking into account developing and printing costs, because you buy new bodies every few years. With digital cameras, the manufacturers keep telling us, there is a marked difference in newer models: better metering and white balancing to make sure the images are better exposed, Active-D Lighting to deal with light/dark differentials (which is what Nikon calls it, I’m sure Canon will offer an equivalent though I don’t know what it is called), more megapixels, greater dynamic range, and so on…

And yes, to be sure, there is a huge difference in Nikon’s early digital cameras and more modern ones (for example, the professional level D1H that was discontinued in 2006 had a 2.66 megapixel sensor, compared to the 12 in my D90). However, I am increasingly unconvinced that all this is changing as rapidly in contemporary times as it did in the past. I write this as the ‘replacement’ for the D90 is hitting the shops, Nikon’s D7000. Yes, it looks very good, and I’m sure many people will buy it, and some of those people will make absolutely stunning images with it. But is it really so-o-o-o much better than the D90 that I should feel the need to go out and buy one?

But… but… the pixel-counter-nutheads will say, how can you ask that? Surely it’s newer, it’s better, it has more megapixels (16, as opposed to the D90′s 12… as if that really mattered! - see below), it can shot 6fps instead of ‘just’ 4.5fps, it puts the milk on your cornflakes for you and makes your tea… ok, probably not those last two.

For all practical purposes, in the DX camera range (Nikon’s cropped sensor cameras), the D90 has , until now, probably been Nikon’s most user-friendly digital camera producing better images than anything else in this price range. It perhaps even surpasses the D300, as this is heavier (though made of metal and therefore sturdier), with less easily accessible options (though they do shoot a little faster and have one or two additional imaging features). Unless you’re a professional taking hundreds of images every day, this is no better than the D90, as to all intents and purposes they use the same sensor and processor.

Now the D7000 has come along. It is an improvement on the D90, but I don’t feel that it gives me that much more than the D90 has given me already. To be sure, if I was now looking to upgrade from the D40 as I did a year ago (Nikon only list the D40x on their website - the D40 was much the same with a 6mp sensor), I would seriously consider a D7000 as well as the D90, but having the D90 now doesn’t make me want to move to the D7000.

I think we need to get away from the mentality that just because the camera manufacturers tell us that something is new and better, we believe them! They cynically presume an inherent disloyalty to the products they themselves sell us: we are no longer supposed to feel so attached to our cameras, instead willing to give them up for something ‘better’ just because it fits their marketing cycles. What we really have are fantastic machines that 10 years ago would have been way beyond anyone’s imagination, and I for one, feel I barely scratch the surface of what my camera can do. I have taken about 10,000 shots with my D90, but know that I am continually learning how to use it better. The early great photographers always said, ‘know your camera so that it becomes second-nature to use it’. I’m quite happy to admit that only after the first 2-3,000 or so shots did I feel I was beginning to really understand what my camera was doing and what I could expect of it. Getting to that point opens me up to using it more creatively, to experimenting with some of the capabilities that lie hidden in the menus or the way it interacts with particular lenses - and only once I’ve got all that sorted out, can I engage with it much more intuitively and create images that centre on the key themes of lighting, composition, visualisation and so on. Buying a new camera gets in the way of that, at least for me - I found it initially quite difficult to move from the D40 to the D90, as certain things kept not happening that I was expecting to happen, and other things did happen that I hadn’t expected!

The only real upgrade at this time, I think, is in format. If I was going to change from the D90, the DX sensor D7000 is not where I’d go. If money was not an issue, I would be interested in the full-sized sensor D700 or D3x - but that would in turn necessitate other lenses…

So if you’re anything like me, don’t fall for the camera manufacturers’ hype. If you have a great camera that you like (and most cameras can be great cameras in the hands of those who know how to use them properly), then stick with it - show it loyalty, and it’ll reward you with images that emerge from your intuitive abilities and interests. And you’ll be doing the environment a favour too…!

PS The difference in the D7000′s 16 megapixels and the D90′s 12 is as follows:
D7000: 4,928 x 3,264 - D90: 4,288 x 2,848
This means 640 x 416 pixels more, crammed into the same sized sensor (which brings its own problems, as I understand it…) - if my maths is right, this is about a 13% increase in image size. In practical terms, unless printing huge advertising hoardings, this is totally irrelevant. In fact, even for advertising hoardings, it’s probably irrelevant since you’d never look at the image closely enough to see the individual dots that make up the image. If you want proof of this, the next time you see an advertisement for shampoo at a bus stop, go right up to the image and look very closely at the model’s face and hair to see all the little pixels that make up her ‘smooth’ skin and even ‘smoother’ hair - they are anything but smooth when viewed closeup! But we don’t normally do that, and that is what makes these small differences so unimportant in large prints. Get over the megapixel mania and think about how you produce sharper images using the light you have and the lenses you use - it’s about art, not pixel-counts!

Technology and art

Nikon introduced the first zoom lens before I was born, which was a 43-86mm lens - by all accounts an absolutely horrific piece of equipment. It was so unbelievably bad that it gave zoom lenses a bad name: I, for one, grew up with the idea that all zoom lenses were terrible, which they are not. Even by the time I was aware of zoom lenses (mid-late 1970s), things had actually moved on substantially, and there were many great zoom lenses available.

Ever since I began to take my photography more seriously, I have used zoom lenses, and I have mostly enjoyed using them. One of the latest ones, that I really like, is the 18-200mm, which is fantastic as an all-round lens, even though it produces slightly ‘saggy’ horizons when used wide. It is great for portraits as well as a good travel lens. But… but…

I also bought a prime last year, the gorgeous little 35mm, and it is so light and produces such beautiful images that it is a joy to have on my camera (it’s about equivalent to a 50mm on a full 35mm frame; the same as I have on my FM2). I find I use it more and more frequently. The aperture goes down to f1.8 to produce lovely blur in out-of-focus areas. I’ve also now invested in a 50mm f1.4, which for my D90 is about 75mm. This I expect to be great for portraits, especially with the wide aperture; on the basis of a few sample shots, I can already tell that it produces really creamy blur with naked skin. But I can also see that it will also be useful for certain kinds of landscapes.

There is something about the simplicity of using prime lenses that I find really attractive. Zoom lenses make me lazier, but with a prime, if I want to frame something in a particular way, I need to make myself get up and move to another location, to walk closer or further away, to think differently about how I approach a subject. It makes for a more interactive engagement with the environment I’m in and that - for me - is a very appealing aspect to photography. I tend to think that it’s not really about taking a photograph, but about making an image, and making requires much more personal engagement than taking!

At some point, you can therefore expect to read about the purchase of a wide prime too… (but unless I win the lottery that I don’t play, I expect this to be in the very distant future, given the high prices of these lenses!).

Saying goodbye, hello, and goodbye again

Sometimes I’m amazed at how attached I become to cameras. I’ve written about my lovely Nikon FM2, and also a little about my new D90. But I haven’t written about my most faithful workhorse, my Nikon D40, that I have been wanting (rather half-heartedly, if truth be told) to sell. The reason for selling is very simple: the D90 is not cheap, and my bank balance will benefit from having funds restored to it having after buying the D90. I’m very glad to have found a buyer, and in particular a very special buyer (more on that in a moment), but I’m still sad to be seeing it go. I bought the D90 for a few specific features that the D40 didn’t have, but I haven’t yet formed quite the intimate bond with it that I feel I have with the D40, even 3,500 shots on the D90 later.

The D40 was my first digital SLR, and in fact, my first digital camera at all. I had always used film until then; now I use both. It was bought reluctantly in the summer of 2008, when the shutter on my film camera jammed just before a holiday and I needed a camera. To my surprise (naive, I know!), it was only possible to buy an F6 from Nikon - whilst I’d love an F6, it’s a bit outwith my price range! So after a bit of research, I went for the D40 - the cheapest digital SLR in Nikon’s range, and despite my initial wariness, I now really love it.

Why? Because it allowed me to explore the art of photography in a way I hadn’t done quite so systematically before then, and allowed me to take some of my favourite pictures ever. This post is a brief review of my D40 photographic life…

Hotel, Bergen

Very early on, I took this image from a hotel window in Bergen, Norway, where I was for an academic conference. The 18-55mm kit lens, despite weighing next to nothing, is great, and served me well on my travels. Although I later bought the much heavier 18-200mm, the smaller lens is not only considerably lighter, it doesn’t have the barrel distortion of the larger one (that sometimes, if not used carefully, results in horizons sagging in the middle, for example).

With the D40, I usually felt I was being relatively unobtrusive - not quite like a rangefinder (which doesn’t have the clunking mirror noise that an SLR has), but it is a small SLR and therefore not as ‘in your face’ as my old film SLR was, which had a large battery grip as well as fairly big fat old lenses; this made the D40 great for social occasions (the D90 is again a bigger camera…).

Stephanie Tait

Speaking of people, it was with the D40 that I took some of my first systematic portraits. One of my very early blog posts was about directing portraits and it was with the D40 that I took several hundred photographs of Stephanie. She allowed herself to be photographed - wanted it even - in itself a new experience for me, and this enabled me to discover a whole new aspect to my photographic interest: aside from landscapes and family photography, I loved being able to photograph someone who was willing to do what I asked them to do, even if I wasn’t very good at doing it!

Stephanie Tait

However, I did go on a very helpful one-day introductory course to portrait photography at Stills, and began to find it easier to think about these things. A later photoshoot with Stephanie resulted in what I felt were better portraits. And of course, the D40 was part of all of this.

Over the summer of 2009 I spent 3 weeks on Mull, and was up about half the mornings to take dawn photographs - a wonderful experience. I used both film and digital for these sessions. Some of the D40 photographs formed the basis of a 2010 calendar I created.

Torridon

And when I went to Torridon for my first weekend course with Bruce Percy, it was the D40 that I took with me. This was the first time I’d ever spent time thinking about how to approach landscape photography under the guidance of a really great photographer, and the D40 was a great camera to have with me for that (I wrote about that in a series of blog entries: 1, 2, 3, 4). It coped with some very soggy weather (plastic bags were on hand to wrap it in whilst taking photographs!), and I came home with a collection of images that I really love.

So the D40 has been through a lot with me. It feels a bit like a ‘first ever’ camera, because we’ve done so much together. I’m reminded of all this because my D90 has been in for repair (a minor warranty issue), and so I’ve reverted to using the D40. It feels so nice and snug in my hands, and I’ve really enjoyed taking it with me for walks and events in the last couple of weeks. As it happens, a day or two after the D90 went in for repair, a friend got in touch to say she wanted to buy the D40. So in a funny kind of way, these last two weeks have felt a bit like a swansong, just before it moves on to a new owner; 15,000 exposures later, and it works as it did on the day I bought it. There is no doubt in my mind that this is a really fantastic camera - if you’re looking for a digital SLR, this is a great one to consider (though now going up in price drastically! I’m not asking for anything like the amounts noted here for mine…).

What I am really pleased about, however, in the sadness at having to sell it at all, is that the D40 is going to a very good new home. My friend Carrie is buying it, and will, I am sure, put it to very good use in her art and more generally. She is a fantastically creative individual, and very reflective of her own place and identity in relation to her art, and I’m sure she will find that a good camera will help her. I realise I’m writing about a device made of metal, glass and plastic as if it were a beloved pet cat that I need to give away when moving to another country, but it almost feels like that. For me, the idea of the camera not ‘getting in the way’ of the photograph is perfectly realised in a camera like the D40, and this fusion is exactly what Dorothea Lange was speaking about. I hope Carrie finds the D40 as useful as I did, and before long finds herself ‘fused’ to it in the way that I did.

Today I collected the repaired D90, so now it really is farewell, faithful friend.

Ken Rockwell’s guides to the D40 and D90

A short post: just to recommend the Nikon D40/D40x and D90 guides for the iPod touch that Ken Rockwell has produced (I have the iPod, but they also work on the iPhone) - they are excellent guides to both cameras. I had downloaded the D90 guide yesterday before going to a meeting, and in the hour I was on the train I played with the new camera whilst going through his guide on my iPod, and learnt so much about the camera and the various settings. I also bought the D40 guide a while ago, and although at that stage I had been using the D40 for a while, I still found it useful. I highly recommend both guides!

Links are: D40, D90. If you don’t have an iPod touch (or iPhone), you can read the full details on his site, and buy the same content as printable PDF files - follow the links to his home page, click on ‘Nikon’ and a list of cameras will appear, with summaries/guides for each one. (By the way, the only iPod touch guides are for these two cameras, he hasn’t produced any others.)

The camera doesn’t matter, but…

Although your camera really doesn’t matter, as I say on my website (citing far more illustrious photographers than I’m ever likely to be), I am still excited at having bought a new digital camera, a Nikon D90. After my post a few days ago about prices, I decided to raid the piggy bank (i.e. take money out of the building society account where it is earning next to no interest at the moment), and invest in the D90. To my considerable surprise, it doesn’t feel that much heavier than the D40!

I’m not yet sure what I’ll do with the D40, but for the moment I’ll keep it and probably use both cameras alongside each other. I love the D40, and it is so easy to make great pictures with it…

Coping with the rain

(Stefanie, this one’s for you!)

It rained a lot over the weekend in Torridon. A LOT. Even by damp Scottish standards, there was an excessive amount of rain, and rain in Scotland, as I suggested in my second post about the weekend, has magical properties. Waterproof raincoats are sometimes tested to their limits in Scotland (perhaps it ought to be a legal requirement that all jackets sold as ‘waterproof’ need to have spent at least a couple of days in a proper Scottish downpour before they’re allowed to be described as ‘waterproof jackets’!). But even if you have a jacket that is waterproof, eventually, water still manages to get everywhere - if it’s not rain, it’s rain and sweat! This summer I walked up Ben More on Mull, and it rained almost continuously all the way up and all the way down - about 5 or 6 really miserable hours. I was quite literally soaked through to the skin, to the extent that after I drove back to the house, the car seat ended up being rather damp (but most importantly, both my cameras were safe… I had them wrapped in plastic bags!). Whenever I felt the downpour ease off a bit, I opened my jacket to take a camera out and catch a photo (none of which were any good!). This naturally let in rain, and combined with sweat, the waterproof jacket really couldn’t help me. In Torridon at the end of October, I found that my jacket was ok, but water ran up my sleeves every time I reached out to adjust camera settings - despite the jacket’s elasticated lining on the wrists. And water came in through the pocket area of my waterproof trousers (ha! damp-proof trousers would be a more accurate description!), and and and… like I said, magical properties!

But one of the things that the weekend confirmed for me about cameras in the rain is that rain really shouldn’t be something to stop you creating photographs: although there are special waterproof camera housings that allow easy access to the camera controls whilst allowing the lens free access to the open air, I have found over the years that for most circumstances, a completely clear plastic bag and some strong elastic bands also works: put the camera inside the bag, put the elastic bands round the front of the lens just behind any filters that you’re using, if necessary tear a small hole in the bag to allow the tripod mount to be used (I can just jam my tripod head into the camera holder without doing that - it tears the bag by itself), and you’re done! If you are using a zoom lens, make sure it can move forwards far enough, and you can then take your photographs (if your lens doesn’t have internal focusing, the front of the lens will probably turn when you focus - make sure your elastic bands don’t prevent this, especially if you’re relying on the delicate autofocus motors). The viewfinder will be blurred by the bag, but you’re mostly using it for rough composition in such circumstances: precise cropping can be done later. Take care when removing the bag after the rain - you don’t want to spill water from it onto the camera, defeating the object of protecting the camera in the first place!

The other thing you will need is very absorbent soft tissue for wiping down filters/lenses. Using very soft paper towels from a hotel bathroom works well, or try very soft kitchen roll (the key thing is that you need to avoid using anything that might scratch the delicate glass). I find that if the rain is heavy, I wipe down the filter and - using my remote control - immediately take the photograph. If you haven’t got a remote control, get one - my Nikon one was about £10 and it is invaluable; I’m sure Canon offers something similar.

Why bother with all this? Very simple: when it’s raining the light is often really soft and gentle, with lots of gradual changes in tone and colouration. I think it is such a shame to miss it that for a long time now I have always had a clear plastic bag and elastic bands with me in my camera bag. Especially useful in Scotland…